Penshurst Place

www.penshurstplace.com

   With one of the most beautiful gardens in England, and certainly one of the oldest, a visit to Penshust Place is a must. The romantic house with its mellow sandstone crenulated towers, mullioned windows, tall chimneys and ancient doorways is everyone dream of a large medieval manor house and the garden, just as inspiring, has something to satisfy everyone. Built in 1338, enlarged and enhanced over the centuries, it became the property of the Sidney family in 1552 who own it to this day. Sir Henry Sidney first laid out the formal garden around 1580. For those interested in the historical element it is fascinating to see the formal medieval structure of the layout still apparent. Fortunately, during the 18th century the family did not employ improvers such as Capability Brown who swept away all formal features in gardens and as a result the geometric pattern of clipped hedges and enclosures that unify the garden with the house still remain.

   Late in the 16th century a large area below the house was levelled to create a sunken plat surrounded by raised brick walkways from which could be viewed the pattern of box-edged beds set in gravel. This is now known as the Italian Garden, restored in 1850 by the architect George Devey, the design based on a Kip engraving which can be seen in the house. The central pool if viewed from the ground is oval in shape but if viewed from an upper storey of the house it appears round, a true trompe d’oeil.

   Early in the 17th century the orchard and kitchen gardens, which covered half of the cultivated garden of today, was walled and the theme of fruit trees still runs throughout the garden linking past to present. The small garden rooms created over a period of time and enclosed with clipped hedges of yew are equally charming for those who love the Edwardian style of garden. Some of the features still totally in keeping have been created by eminent designers of the 20th century. Plantsmen will enjoy the seasonal plantings in the garden rooms, artists the harmonious colour combinations of the herbaceous borders and the fashion conscious the grey, silver and white garden. The rose-clad viewing platform, the eye-catching Union Flag Garden, the massed colour of the long peony border and the roses everywhere will all cause the visitor an appreciative intake of breath. For those who prefer the simplicity of native fruits and wildflowers there is the understated beauty of the Nut Garden where Kentish cobs and crab apples are informally underplanted with spring and autumn flowers.

   Children will not complain about visiting this garden. They will love hiding in the pergola overgrown with vines rising like a living tent in the middle of the nut orchard or enjoy exercising their vocal chords trying out the acoustics in the small grassy amphitheatre. It is fun spotting fish, rather smaller than the ones intended for it, in the goddess Diana’s pool or visiting the toy museum which is included in the garden entry ticket. Finally, parents can enjoy exhausting their offspring in the challenging adventure playground or may prefer to follow the nature trail together around the lake in the large park. A visit to the cafe and gift shop completes the visit for those who have run out of the energy for anything but tea and trifles. It is certain to be a thoroughly successful family day out.
Libby Cohen November 1997

Emmetts Garden, Ide Hill, Kent

www.nationaltrust.org.uk

   Emmetts garden is particularly beautiful in springtime although the colourful planting and outstanding views across the Weald of Kent can be enjoyed at any time of the year. In April daffodils create cheerful swathes of colour across the turf and in May bluebells spread like a surreal carpet of mauve under the trees and amongst the shrubs, the effect of which is nothing short of magical. The blooms of the rhododendrons and azaleas in the South Garden create yet more drama as they light up the green backdrop with flaming torches in shades of orange and carmine, magenta and cerise. Other acid loving species flourish here; ground covering heathers, ferns and alpines, shrubs of pieris and magnolia and specimen trees of conifer and maple. This is a garden both for the plantsman who appreciates the individual beauty of a specimen and for the novice who wants to learn the characteristics of a shrub or the eventual size of a tree. As previous owners laid out much of the garden along the lines of an arboretum there are many unusual and excellent species to admire. Bought by Frederick Lubbock, a friend of the horticulturalist William Robinson, in 1890 and designed as a woodland garden on a sloping site it suffered devastation in the storm of 1987. However, like much of the surrounding countryside, the rejuvenation and replanting that has taken place since has resulted in a beautiful landscape once more.

   Woodland and ‘natural’ gardens, contrary to popular belief, need constant maintenance and care; the heavy hand of clipping to shape might be spared but judicious pruning and sometimes removal of plants altogether is necessary and firm control is needed to inhibit vigorous species or eradicate invasive undesirables. Unlike many Robinsonian inspired gardens Emmetts has not degenerated into a disorganized wilderness but is an excellent example of how to achieve control of a naturalistic landscape without a manicured look. Anyone with even the smallest of gardens can create the effect by simply following the ethos - to grow native and unusual plants as they would in their natural environment. One special tree, seasonable bulbs naturalized in the grass, a few well-behaved flowering shrubs and a gravel area or stone sink for alpines is all that is needed to achieve a microcosm of Emmetts.

   With plenty of room to run around in, and a dearth of pristine flower beds, children will enjoy the sense of space and freedom to disappear and hide almost anywhere amongst the trees and shrubs without causing adults an apoplexy. The sunken rock garden is an alpine landscape in miniature and with it’s steep sides, modest cascade and small fish pond is a favourite spot with children and alpine enthusiasts alike. Less active members of the family can relax in the tranquillity and order of the small formal garden planted with fragrant rose bushes and sheltered by hedging. They will equally appreciate the many seats around the garden from which to enjoy the views, these must be magnificent from the Victorian mansion which was built as a family home in 1860 but which is now divided into privately owned apartments. Finally, an attractive teashop offers welcome respite for the whole family from any exercise more strenuous than lifting a cup or cutting a cake. Emmetts is not a garden full of unusual features, not a garden to excite, but a garden in which to take a leisurely stroll and sit to reflect on nature perfected. Emmetts is a Natural Trust Garden
Libby Cohen January 1998

Nymans Garden, Handcross, W.Sussex

www.nationaltrust.org.uk

   The garden at Nymans has everything a garden lover could wish for. Situated in a perfect spot with excellent soil it is one of the most beautiful gardens in the Sussex Weald, seamlessly blending formal and informal styles. It was laid out in 1895 by the banker Ludwig Messel in an era when plantsmen wanted to show off their unusual trees and shrubs in a natural setting. He planted a Pinetum
to show off the latest conifers - very fashionable at the time - a rock garden to display interesting alpines and one of the first heather gardens in England. A large pergola, inspired by the Japanese Exhibition of 1903, was also built in order to grow a specially imported wisteria. However it is the walled garden, created from the old orchard in 1904, that is still the heart of the garden. Where paths that bisect the garden cross there is a classical Italian marble fountain guarded by four sculptured yews and at the end of each axis is a stunning architectural portal. The planting in the herbaceous borders was suggested by William Robinson, the pair on either side of the main path being at their height in the summer with colourful perennials and flowering shrubs. Between the borders are areas designed to grow either rare trees from far-flung corners of the globe or native apple trees and spring flowers from the British Isles.

   Ludwig’s son, Leonard, imported rare plants and to accommodate all his amazing exotics he further increased the garden, including a rhododendron wood and wild garden. The enormous loss of trees in the storm of 1987 was treated positively at Nymans as an opportunity to renew aged planting and the garden is now as impressive as ever. The rose garden created by Leonard’s wife Maud, an expert on roses, was replanted by their daughter Anne, Lady Rosse incorporating many of Maud’s favourites. With a series of arches and trellis work covered in stunning rose blooms the garden delights visitors with its beauty and scent. Close to the house a formal style takes precedence; a classical stone loggia and a Byzantine urn add an architectural element to the sunken garden which is planted with spring and summer bedding. Large topiary birds sit on the terrace, a box-hedged knot garden is surrounded by a pinnacled yew hedge and the walled forecourt - which was until recently the private retreat of the family - is overlooked by a handsome stone dovecote.

   The house at Nymans, transformed in the 1920’s into a beautiful ‘medieval’ manor house, was gutted by fire in 1947. Only partially rebuilt as a small country home from which to tend the gardens, the remaining gothic ruins of the Great Hall are a wonderfully romantic addition to the gardens. In her latter years Lady Rosse lived at Nymans and now the rooms that she used have been opened to the public. For those of us who can only dream of the stylishly decorated rooms seen in glossy magazines, the air of shabby chic is both reassuring and utterly charming. Viewing these rooms - which are a combination of beautiful objects and practical solutions - gives one a feel for those who planned and loved this garden; it is the personal touch, the spirit, that is an essential factor in the success of a garden. Reflect on the beauty of Nymans as you take refreshment in the tea garden and remind yourself of a memorable visit with a choice plant from the nursery. Nymans is a National Trust Garden.
Revised April 99 Libby Cohen

Yalding Organic Gardens, Kent

www.gardenorganic.org.uk

   The historic recreation of a series of display gardens through the centuries by the Henry Doubleday Research Association adds a new dimension to garden visiting for all generations of the family. As the style of each garden successfully embraces organic principles without loss of aesthetic appeal it will reinforce the conviction of those already ecologically aware that the way to garden in the future is along organic lines. It may also convert those who hitherto did not believe such results could be obtained without pesticides or sprays, back-breaking weeding or expensive fertilizers. The small natural woodland is the first area to visit to allow children to let off steam whilst they appreciate what our landscape was like before it was cultivated.

   A walk through the Apothecary’s Garden demonstrates that between the 13th-15th centuries a major use of cultivated plants was for medicinal purposes - as well as for cooking and masking the many unpleasant smells that surrounded human habitats - and the species grown here will interest those visitors who are committed to homeopathic remedies. The 16th century Knot Garden is designed to appeal to those who love the order and romance that gardens of the Tudor and Stuart period evoke whilst those of a more practical mind may enjoy the early 19th century Cottager’s Garden. Primary school children will be fascinated by the idea of a pigsty by the back door of the cottage and hens in the yard, to see hops growing as a vegetable as well as for brewing, grasses for plaiting hats, tall ears of spelt for grinding into flour and an outdoor bread oven. All of these bring history to life in the most visual and memorable way.

   Roses and climbers scrambling over a circular pergola, the extravagant colour of the Victorian vegetable and flower garden and the tasteful harmony of the Edwardian herbaceous border will satisfy everyone who will not be really happy without an abundant floriferous display. The 1950’s allotment garden may bring memories flooding back for many and fruit and vegetable growers should be in their element to see their favourites raised in such a variety of ways. To see everything grown organically and to find out new ways to recycle waste or conserve water will have resourceful gardeners planning their next project. The Wildlife Garden is an attractive area for those of all ages who love butterflies and birds and the Childrens Garden is sure to be popular with younger members of the family as it is home to furry guinea pigs, bins full of wriggling worms and a variety of slippery pond life.

   Yalding is a small garden but one of such diversity and interest - with a gift shop, tea room and plant nursery too - that it is not difficult to while away a couple of hours. As the planting of the gardens was only started in 1993 it is a good example of how much can be achieved in a short time and an inspiration to those who are about to embark on some new project. Following the philosophy so sympathetically espoused at Yalding should result in gardens that are not only easy and cheap to maintain but ecologically sound and beautiful too.
Private gardens throughout the country are open to the public to promote organic gardening during the last weekend in June and the first weekend in August on behalf of the HRDA and other charities. Details can be obtained from Henry Doubleday Research Association, Ryton Organic Garens, Ryton-on-Dunsmore, Coventry CV8 3LG Tel. 01203 303517
Revised April 99 Libby Cohen

Bateman's, Burwash, East Sussex

www.nationaltrust.org.uk

   Rudyard Kipling bought Bateman’s in 1902 as a retreat, an attempt to avoid the literary groupies his success had spawned. The house is Jacobean, with later additions, built of stone from the local quarry by an Ironmaster in 1634 when this industry was in evidence throughout Kent and Sussex. Kipling’s study and the other rooms in the house are arranged as they were during his lifetime, he died in 1936, and an interesting collection of memorabilia is on display. Set in a flat site the house is surrounded by gentle hills and it is one of these to the west that became Pook’s Hill, made famous in the author’s Puck tales. Kipling enjoyed designing and planting the neglected garden, which he did with admirable reserve, and this inspiration for much of his writing and poetry is kept as close as possible in style and content as it was in 1936.
Oh, Adam was a gardener, and God who made him sees
That half a proper gardener’s work is done upon his knees,
So when your work is finished, you can wash your hands and pray
For the Glory of the Garden, that it must not pass away!
The Glory of the Garden, 1911

   This is an Edwardian garden, though more restrained than many of the period. Kipling wanted order and peace in his surroundings and managed to achieve this in his garden with a simple formal layout. He planted yew hedges, kept neatly clipped, to divide the garden up into a series of rectangles, low sandstone walls to accommodate the slight changes in level and paths of local rough Purbeck stone. The use of indigenous materials was in tune with the Arts and Crafts ethos of the time and one we should seek to emulate today. The simple
uncluttered design, and naturally toning shades of green, create a harmony and tranquillity not found in many more ‘busy’ and colourful gardens. The effect is one of elegance and it is a clear example of the value of a strong but simple structural framework as the basis for any garden layout. The impressive tunnel of pears Kipling designed and the mulberry, quince and medlar trees are reminders that fruit trees were an important element in old gardens. The rectangular pool and the rose garden designed by him in 1906 were built with the money he was awarded for the Nobel Prize for Literature in 1907.

   A double pleached lime walk crosses the lawn, planted before Kipling bought the house, and leads to the former tennis courts now planted as a wild garden. Here trees, shrubs and a tapestry of spring flowering bulbs cover the grass and - crossing the little bridge over the Dudwell River which leads to the watermill - moisture loving perennials grow along the margins of the river bank. Children, and anyone who likes anything to do with wheels and engines, will enjoy the evidence of Kipling’s interest with the mechanical. He loved to be driven about the Sussex countryside in his 1928 Rolls Royce, which can be seen in the garage, and next to the mill he installed a water driven turbine to generate electricity for the house; today this is one of the oldest working examples in the world. The mill is renovated to working order and, on Saturday afternoons at 2 pm, visitors can watch local corn being ground into flour. The organic flour is sold in small amounts for the keen baker to take home for a do-it-yourself loaf. Bateman’s, Burwash, Etchingham, East Sussex is owned by the National Trust and is open 4 April - 2 Nov; daily except Thurs & Fri, 11 - 5.30 pm

Hever Castle, Kent

www.hever-castle.co.uk

   Hever Castle, home of Anne Boleyn; already the visitor is transported to a far off time of medieval banquets, deer hunting and falconry, a Prince romantically courting and a Court ruthlessly plotting. Built in the late 13th century much of the original castle survives and these features, the keep, square towers, crenulated walls, moat, gateway and portcullis, imbue even the new ‘Tudor’ village with antiquity. Hever’s fortunes declined after Anne’s death but were finally revived when William Waldorf Astor purchased the estate and fully restored the dilapidated castle between 1903 and 1907. He then embarked on an equally ambitious programme for the grounds which can today be fully appreciated in their maturity. Under the castle walls are small recreations of Tudor gardens; giant and humorous looking chess pieces stand to attention, small beds of fragrant herbs and flowers are edged in box and a large maze, now nearly a hundred years old, is
being refurbished.

   Crossing the outer moat the Half Moon Pool and tall iron gates invite the visitor into the enclosed classical landscape of the Italian Garden. Built to house Lord Astors impressive collection of statuary, sculpture and sarcophogi this garden is a well proportioned space surrounded by a classical stone pergola draped in climbers. On the southern wall under the pergola there are niches like miniature grottos, inspired by the Villa d’Este near Rome, which trickle with water and support moisture loving plants. The northern wall is studded with classical statuary, some of it dating from AD 100, and the age and the workmanship of the carving is awe inspiring - if it seems at times like a museum show-case it is a small price to pay in order to see such a comprehensive collection so close to home. The Roman pool, the smooth sward, the clipped hedges, the classical figures and the vases creating rythym and symmetry all combine to create a sense of peace and tranquility. The loggia at the furthest end of the garden frames a spectacular view of the lake which, with its glistening water and surrounding landscape, is a view worthy of a Lorrain or Poussin painting. From the Italian garden, through a bold rock garden and lovely rose garden and on into the informal areas for another change of style.

   The ugly Tea Pavilion, erected in 1973, jars amongst this classical beauty and deserves to be replaced with a structure which is sympathetic to its surroundings. But natural beauty beckons. The Sister’s Pool, fed from water above, conjures up visions of nymphs; the rocky outcrops of stone are suitably picturesque; the Rhododendron walk are breathtaking in May; the banks carpeted with bulbs in spring refresh the spirit; the mature trees and shrubs give a pleasant sense of enclosure and the gently undulating lawns leading down to the moat complete a circuit of the gardens that leave the visitor feeling that all is well with the world. For exercise take the route along Anne Boleyn’s Walk with its views of parkland and mature trees and, for those who have energy to spare, the path that leads onwards circumnavigating the lake. Sit on the grass in the park and enjoy a picnic whilst the children run about imagining themselves in some swashbuckling epic. The gardens at Hever are pure romantic escapism, a tasteful fantasy of architecture and landscape that provides a most enjoyable way to spend a day at almost any time of the year.
Libby Cohen February 1998

Squerryes Court, Westerham, Kent

www.squerryes.co.uk

   The elegant Westerham manor house known as Squerryes Court, filled with with fine porcelain, pictures and furniture, is now set off by a fine formal garden, re-created to unite architecture and landscape as intended. A house has stood on the site since at least the 13th century. The present house, a handsome and well-proportioned example of the Anglo/Dutch style, was built in it’s place by Sir Nicholas Crisp, between 1681 and 1686. The Warde family acquired Squerryes in 1731 and have lived there ever since. King William III is reputed to have visited Squerryes early in the 18th century when the formal gardens were laid out by the next owner, the Earl of Jersey. However, in the middle of the century all formal features of the garden - the straight drive and avenues, the formal canal and square beds - were swept away. These were replaced with the sinuous curves of paths, an irregular-shaped lake, sweeping lines of turf, and clumps of trees as were fashionable at the time.

   After the great storm of 1987, when so many of the ancient trees in the garden were lost, the family decided to restore part of the garden to its original design. They began replacing features close to the house, much as Humphry Repton had done in the late 18th century after similar fashionable excesses. The design of the new parterre, built on what had originally been a large square bowling green, incorporates floral patterns that had originally been laid out to the sides of the house. An original garden plan of 1719, which can be seen in the house, acted as the blueprint and visitors can now see the parterre of box edged beds and planting coming to maturity. This new formal layout re-enforces the original strong geometric structure of the garden which, although it had remained visible throughout in the raised terracing and paths, is now more obvious with the addition of clipped yew hedging. Similarly, avenues shown on the original plan that create axes from the house outwards into the park are now defined with newly planted trees culminating in a demi-lune.

   Several attractive structures built in the 18th century survive in the garden, among them a gazebo built in 1740 overlooking the lake and a circular dovecote. An orangery built at the same time as the house and a Victorian octagonal meat and game larder are perfect and charming examples of their type and both cry out to be included in the restoration. Twin borders created early in the 2oth century remain, filled with roses and herbaceous favourites, demonstrating perfectly how the blending of different periods can be sympathetically achieved. Acting as a foil to the formal garden, the surrounding informal planting remains. It is pleasant to walk past spring bulbs, shrubs, roses and parkland trees; to climb up to where a cenotaph has been erected in memory of General James Wolfe of Quebec by his childhood friend, George Warde, and survey the prospect below across the surrounding countryside. Meanwhile, the children can scramble over the giant fallen chestnut and discover the Victorian rockery with its fanciful topiary. Altogether, Squerryes’ style, treasures and garden will captivate everyone who loves restrained good taste and the timeless quality the house and garden exudes. A delightful way to spend an afternoon at any season of the year.
Libby Cohen January 1998

Please visit www.kentattractions.co.uk for other places, railways, castles or animal attractions to visit.

The Old Stables - Great Oaks House, Shipbourne, Nr Tonbridge, Kent. TN11 9RX